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Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, And Catching The Perfect Wave (2010)

by Peter Heller(Favorite Author)
3.72 of 5 Votes: 2
1439171815 (ISBN13: 9781439171813)
Free Press
review 1: This was a pretty fun and fast read. I finished the book on my 49th birthday, and despite having grown up on the beach; in fact in 'Surf City', also known as Huntington Beach, I never learned to surf. I loved boogie boarding as a kid, and enjoy body surfing even today at every opportunity that I get, but I was never enough of an early riser to invest the effort needed to surf. So the idea of a 40+ non or novice surfer or 'Kook' testing the notion that he could still learn intrigued me. So as a travelogue of surf spots, starting in HB, and a tale about his efforts to learn how to sure, I really enjoyed this book. We'll see if I can likewise go from Kook to surfer in middle age.
review 2: Another book by Peter Heller. this one his own story, not a novel, - about
... morelearning to surf in a 1 year odyssey down the coast of So Ca and Mexico. Its equally about learning to be in relationship with his girlfriend, Kim - brave soul who surfs, and accompanies him. He is honest with himself in realizing what a selfish, driven/obsessed person he could be at times. He puts himself out there, both in the water, in waves, and with athletes far beyond his skill & experience. He also stretches himself in discovering that love means compromise. Every guy spiring to surf, or starting out in a serious 1st relationship with a girl, should read this book! less
Reviews (see all)
Reading this book gave me new appreciation for surfing, and for the sea. Loved it.
I'm just finishing this book and it brought me many hours of escape.
this is what i would do if i won the lottery
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