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Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, And Catching The Perfect Wave (2010)

by Peter Heller(Favorite Author)

3.72 of 5 Votes: 2

ISBN

1439171815 (ISBN13: 9781439171813)

languge

English

genre

Memoir & Autobiography

publisher

Free Press

review 1: This was a pretty fun and fast read. I finished the book on my 49th birthday, and despite having grown up on the beach; in fact in 'Surf City', also known as Huntington Beach, I never learned to surf. I loved boogie boarding as a kid, and enjoy body surfing even today at every opportunity that I get, but I was never enough of an early riser to invest the effort needed to surf. So the idea of a 40+ non or novice surfer or 'Kook' testing the notion that he could still learn intrigued me. So as a travelogue of surf spots, starting in HB, and a tale about his efforts to learn how to sure, I really enjoyed this book. We'll see if I can likewise go from Kook to surfer in middle age.
review 2: Another book by Peter Heller. this one his own story, not a novel, - about ... morelearning to surf in a 1 year odyssey down the coast of So Ca and Mexico. Its equally about learning to be in relationship with his girlfriend, Kim - brave soul who surfs, and accompanies him. He is honest with himself in realizing what a selfish, driven/obsessed person he could be at times. He puts himself out there, both in the water, in waves, and with athletes far beyond his skill & experience. He also stretches himself in discovering that love means compromise. Every guy spiring to surf, or starting out in a serious 1st relationship with a girl, should read this book! less

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