So here we are; five months into my Erasmus adventure in Lyon and after much umm-ing and aah-ing, I’ve finally decided to put all the somewhat mediocre opinion stored inside my head to good use and write a blog. Although my time in Lyon serves as good starting point, these posts aren’t limited to a single subject matter, rather just whatever pops into my head at any given moment, with possible topics ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous. Either way, any feedback would be massively appreciated.
Even a period as long as five months is nowhere near enough to get fully acquainted with the intrigue and diversity that Lyon seems to contain at every turn, whether it be in terms of bars, restaurants or just charming little open spaces which make you forget that you’re in the middle of France’s third biggest city. Like anywhere, favourite bars and areas are easily found, but there’s also so much to be said for wandering the narrow, animated streets of Croix Rousse or the tourist hotspots of Vieux Lyon and Hotel de Ville and stumbling upon the continual sources of interest and curiosity, whilst continually grappling with attempts to distinguish what it is specifically that characterises the city.
That is the charm of Lyon – it can’t be defined in a singular fashion, with the assortment of different neighbourhoods each providing their own distinctive personality, from the calm sophistication which surrounds Bellecour to Confluence’s sleek modernity (both just a short walk from each other). Yet at the same time, they all seem to fit together, each area juxtaposing and complementing its neighbours to create a patchwork of different neighbourhoods, each threaded together seamlessly. It is this diversity which has shaped my own experience of Lyon, flitting between sharing drinks by the Rhone and the coffee shops of Croix Rousse, which has allowed me to create my own personalised account of the city along the way. Indeed, such a personalisation seems impossible to avoid in Lyon – there’s simply too much choice for there to be any sort of standardised narrative of where to go and what to do.
My life in Lyon has of course been much less one-dimensional than a constant stream of bars and coffee shops suggests, and there have been much more difficult moments than are evident from this glamorised description. The flawed French bureaucratic system, for example, has given me a valuable insight into what life before the internet was like, and has made me appreciate the imperfect organisational structure at my own university. The transition to studying almost entirely in French has also been difficult at points, often making me feel like a clueless, hungover fresher all over again, yet at the same time, as my understanding has improved, it’s become increasingly rewarding to see my French comprehension progress.
It goes without saying that the differences between life in England and France are numerous, from the continual diet of baguette, ham and cheese to the drink of choice changing from a pint of John Smiths to a glass of rosé (albeit bottles which give you change from a €2 coin). However, one thing sticks out – the city seems to have a much more relaxed, slower atmosphere than anything that I’ve encountered in the UK. This is evident just from a short amount of time wandering through the city; comparative to the hustle and bustle of London or other British cities, people seem to take a much slower, casual pace, with many groups content to saunter along and observe the city’s movements. There is a steady buzz around Lyon’s bars, cafes and restaurants throughout the entire day and evening, with people eager to set some time aside for friends and family.
It is this which I admire about French culture, the desire to take a step back from work and other commitments, and get the most out of each day. Whether it be through spending an hour in a lunchtime coffee shop, or a bar around the cobbled streets of Vieux Lyon, the city seems to resonate with this laid-back attitude.
I’m fully aware that what is presented here is, by my own account, a rather rose-tinted depiction of French culture. Like any reputablefake news outlet would do, I have chosen to emphasise the idea of carefree beers in the sun rather than the worrying upsurge in far-right nationalism which currently grips the country, spearheaded by ‘le Front National’, the controversial French political party with a history of anti-Semitism, particularly under former head Jean-Marie Le Pen, and its troubling move towards mainstream politics under current leader Marine Le Pen. The popul
arity of such a party (Le Pen came second only to Emmanuel Macron in the 2017 Presidential election), whose policies revolve around a much stricter stance on immigration whilst providing support for Russia and President Putin, suggests that tensions in France are much higher than the relaxed café society which I have portrayed may suggest.
Nevertheless, there’s something to be said for this little romanticism of French society which focusses on taking a more blasé attitude to, and thus making the most of, daily life, if not the underlying political and social background. Although trivial, the mark which this fragment of francophone culture leaves on the city has been significant on an ignorant international student such as myself, and in some ways has shaped my time in the city so far, as I further integrate myself into this laid-back, sociable culture.
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