Trip Profile: 24 hours in Hobart prior to starting on the 3 Capes Track. A whistle-stop tour of the sights and eats.
Timing: December 2017. Note that Hobart’s iconic Salamanca markets are only open on a Saturday. Taste of Tasmania straddles the new year and MONA’s summer festival of music and art is held in mid-January.
Getting in and around: There’s a door to door shuttle service from the Airport to Hobart city which you can buy tickets for on the bus itself. If you’re arriving on the early morning Jetstar flight, the timing works out and you’re travelling light, I’d consider catching the MONA airport bus which will take you directly to MONA and return you to Hobart for about the same price as the standard airport transfer. Naturally this only works if you’re travelling light with carry on only – there are free lockers available at MONA for small backpacks and larger ones available for hire. You will miss out on the MONA ferry ride and its iconic sheep though.
Hobart is as you might expect a very walkable city but if looking to explore a bit further it’s worth checking out the Art Bike service
24 hours starts with …
Breakfast then MONA
A trip to Hobart wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the museum of new and old art – more familiarly known as “MONA”. What’s the fuss you say? There’s art as you traditionally know it, but also mummies, fish in a bowl, and a sh*t machine (I sh*t you not). There are 2 ways to get there unless you have your own set of wheels – either the bus option described above or a pleasant ferry ride up the River Derwent. In either case, breakfast will likely be a priority and Daci & Daci Bakers is conveniently located around the corner from Brooke Street Pier. Even if you’re catching the MONA bus, the 20 minute pit stop at Brooke Street Pier is enough time to pick up a few baked goodies (I’d recommend the pies and bombalonis) and get your caffeine fix.
Independent of when you arrive or what your itinerary in Hobart is, I’d recommend visiting MONA early in the day to avoid the crowds as some exhibits do have queues. As a neutral with limited art appreciation abilities found 2 hours to be sufficient to explore the museum but enthusiasts have been said to spend the whole day here. Worth bearing in mind when planning your day (or in the case of the ferry ride, nominating your return time – do allow additional time if you’re staying for lunch at MONA’s on-site restaurant).
If you do finish earlier than expected and have time to kill before your return ferry, Moorilla winery’s cellar door is where you want to be to sip wine and chug Moo Brew beer. You’re welcome. If you’re interested in a tour of the Moorilla winery, they run daily at 3.30pm with tickets bookable online.
12.30 ferry back to Hobart and lunch
You could have lunch on the ferry back to Hobart but it’s worth holding out for something a bit more substantial. Jackman & McRoss is a bakery and a local institution – a mate who’s a local swears by their half baguettes. On seeing the menu though, I couldn’t resist opting for their scallop pie given its status as a Hobart food icon. The curried filling was creamy and delicious but I found myself wishing for more scallops – which were few and far between bites. I realise that would mean a more costly pie, but it would be a premium worth paying to have the scallops as the hero of the … scallop pie.
Cheeky beer at Preachers
It’s as if Preachers was made for afternoon beers. Not far from Jackman & McRoss you’ll find a converted colonial house with a beer garden that’s perfectly glorious for those long summer afternoons. The only downer? If you’re doing the mountain bike descent you can’t get too carried away!
Afternoon mountain bike descent from Mount Wellington
While mountain biking conjures up images of BMX youths careening headfirst down a mountain spraying dirt in their wake, the mountain bike descent by Under Down Under is far tamer – with 80% of the descent on tarmac – making it a great introduction for novices like myself. I went on the tour partly to get a taste of mountain biking, but also because it was one of the few ways a solo traveler would be able to get to the top of Mount Wellington and experience the panoramic views of Hobart and its surrounds.
Dinner at Templo
A tiny 18-seater that needs to be booked well in advance, Templo serves up a seasonal Mediterranean menu with the only mainstay being the signature gnochetti. Simple, delicious food that serves as the perfect bookend to an action-packed day in Hobart.
