Considering it’s only about an hour by train from central London, it took me far too long to get myself to Oxford. Now I have been once, I am hooked – the whole city feels like a real life Hogwarts, pulled forward from the past and perfectly preserved. It definitely doesn’t have that busy, bustling feel of other cities but it has the most incredible atmosphere that you won’t find anywhere else.
Stop #1: The Bridge of Sighs
Only in Oxford could you turn a corner and find yourself face to face with a bridge that would look more at home in Venice than in the middle of a quaint Southern city. Actually called Hertford bridge, it looks like the charming little brother of the Rialto, and was originally designed to connect two parts of the college. There is a myth that the bridge was closed for a while to encourage the Hertford college students (apparently the biggest and most unhealthy in the university) to use their legs and walk the long way round. Actually, taking the bridge ends up being more effort and more steps than the scenic route!
As a general rule, I hate stairs. I am not going to deny how lazy I am, and if there is the option of a lift or an escalator, I am always going to take it. Unfortunately, St Mary’s tower had neither of these things, so my only option was to climb the (many) stairs to the viewing platform at the top. Okay, so there was actually only 127 steps, but they were incredibly steep and incredibly narrow. At one point I was practically hanging out of the window trying to make room for people to pass by! Getting up there may have been a difficulty, but no-one can deny that the views are worth it. It really did feel like I was looking at Hogwarts from above, and the way the golden light hit the Radcliffe camera was just beautiful. If I am going to climb stairs for anything, it’s going to be a view like that.
After all those stairs, it’s time for some carbohydrates! There really aren’t many foods more British than pie and mash, and I still sometimes dream about the Moodog steak, ale and bacon pie from Pieminister. At £8.00 for a box of pie and mash with gravy, cheese and crispy onions – you really can’t go wrong. It was hearty, it was filling and it was downright tasty; from the deliciously creamy mash to the buttery, flaky pastry to the rich and meaty gravy… I am getting hungry just thinking about it.
Stop #4: The Bodleian Library
It’s a really good idea to stop by the Bodleian early to buy your tickets, otherwise you are going to be waiting in a looooong queue later in the day. Not only is the Bod steeped in history, but it is also home to some of the most ‘magical’ sights in Oxford – which naturally makes it one of the most visited spots in the city. The 15th Century Divinity School, for example, doubles up as Madame Pomfrey’s hospital wing and Duke Humfrey’s library is home to the Restricted Section of the Hogwarts library. I would have loved to do the extended tour of the Bodleian Library, but unfortunately this is only available early on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, so I had to settle for the standard tour. It’s still absolutely fascinating to see and hear the history of the second largest (and one of the oldest) libraries in the UK and was certainly worth the £8 tour price.
I am a sucker for a good food market, and Oxford’s Covered Market is up there with the best of them. Pieminister is (of course) the highlight, but don’t leave without getting a drink from Moo Moos milkshake. Their milkshakes come in every flavour you could wish for – from Battenburg, to custard creams to crunchie nut cornflakes – but for something a little lighter their smoothies are also delicious. The passionate pineapple is sweet, fruity and refreshing: the perfect way to rehydrate after miles of walking around the cobbled streets!
It’s hard to believe that Christchurch college is still a functioning part of the university campus – it is just so beautiful and old-fashioned that it’s hard to imagine people actually living, working and learning there. Again, you might recognise some of the sights from the Harry Potter movies: the cloisters feature heavily in outdoor scenes between classes and the main staircase is the one which leads into the Great Hall. The Rose Window in the cathedral is also definitely worth a visit, particularly if you time it right to catch the sun.
Stop #7: Atomic Burger
Atomic Burger is probably (/definitely) the closest thing the Oxford will ever get to an American diner. Think oversized burgers with ridiculous toppings, mountains of fries, and the crispiest of onion rings, all served with a heaping side of unashamed and unrelenting geek culture (yes, I am talking to you, life size Dalek in the middle of the restaurant). It’s undeniably gimmicky, but in a way that’s still charming and fun, rather than being try-hard and desperate. Even if sci-fi isn’t your thing, who can resist a good burger – especially one that has two grilled cheese sandwiches in the place of buns. As an added bonus, they sell A&W root beer, which I have craved almost non-stop since I left the US. It’s never going to pass as an authentic American diner, but Atomic Burger sure comes close.
Did I miss anything out? Let me know your favourite things to do in Oxford in the comments!
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